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July Diary 2004


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We were happy enough with the ferry, the cabin was a 2 berth outside with shower and wc the food on board was very good. We took in a movie followed by a good nights sleep.The highlight on this crossing was the Corinth Canal which was excavated over 100 years ago to link the Aegean and Ionian seas: the purpose was to cut short a dangerous journey of 650 miles subject to prolonged attacks from pirates. Work began on the canal in 1882 and finished in 1894. One of the outstanding engineering achievements of the nineteenth century, the canal is an immensely impressive sight, a straight line hewed out of solid rock, it looks as if it is 100 yards long whereas in reality the distance is four miles!.

We arrived in Cesme at about 6pm then after successfully navigating through the visa’s and passport control it was with great relief to hit the road again. We headed for Izmir then south east towards Antalya, we arrived at Aydin about 9pm where we checked into a hotel for the night, 28 euros,basic but clean.


Set off bright and cheery this morning at 07.30, destination Tasucu, with luck we will get there in time for tonight’s sailing and hopefully bring my ticket forward. I had been told to be careful on the roads when in Turkey but compared to the Italians I found the drivers here as courteous as anywhere else. The journey took us through Denizili then Antalya where we joined the coast road and arrived in Tasucu at about 6pm the views on the journey was at times breathtaking, I never realised how spectacular their mountain ranges were.

We managed to change our ferry ticket,to board the midnight ferry, then walked round the small town, had a meal, at the same time looking for any other British people who may be making the same journey. We met up with John and Christine, a Yorkshire couple, who had bought a house in Yesiltepe about 6 miles from Girne.

We teamed up with John and Christine with the thoughts of 4 heads are better than 2 as nobody here seemed to speak English and it would be just like playing charades trying to get understood. This was an experience to remember, we checked in through the gates and were directed to park up just to the rear of a docked cargo ferry, an ancient looking ship, but were told no more. Eventually we discovered we had to go to the police or were they customs? still not sure who they were, located in a dimly lit office. The one person there looked up from his TV stamped our passports checked some papers told us ‘police’ then he was back to his TV. We then went back to the main office looking for more officials and found some locals who were also waiting; the officials had not yet started work. Eventually after much paper stamping and paying monies, police tax, port tax, export tax and possibly tax tax! we were ready to board.

It was a straight drive on reverse off ferry with a lounge upstairs for passengers, no cabins on this mini cruise, it was so basic. There were 2 ferries I imagine they sail together in case one breaks down.


We eventually left Tasucu at 4am this morning, as Victor Meldrew would say "I Don't Believe It". We should have left at midnight, the ferry was full and ready to go, maybe the captain hadn't turned up. It turned out that the other ferry still had late comers to board. My patience was at last being tested.

We all found it difficult to get any sleep on the lounge chairs, there were kids who were too excited to sleep running about, the TV was on full blast and of course in Turkish. I returned to my car and found a travel blanket and tried to get some sleep on the open deck but could only get 40 winks at a time. Trying to get something positive in my mind I told Michele and the others that this at least, would be the one and only time we would need to use this ferry, Imagine then to my horror when I discovered that I had left a folder which contained all our paperwork apart from car documents and passport at the ferry office in Tasucu. I nearly cried.

On arrival at Girne North Cyprus I was tired, unwashed and unsure if I would get my documents returned and to make matters worse one of the car transporters jack knifed his trailer and was stuck fast so we could not drive off for at least 40 mins. The sun was burning down on us but my mind was on the documents. I asked Michele to drive the car and I walked off the ferry looking for an official to phone the ferry office in Tasucu for me, negative my papers were not there.

What a palaver getting through the customs and police but after our experiences at the previous ports we were becoming seasoned campaigners and eventually were through the gates and making our way up to Donald's Penthouse (with no directions but for what I'd hopefully memorised the previous week as they were in the document folder that I had left in Turkey). Suddenly, I drove over a raised manhole cover in the middle of the road, well a dirt track really, when I got out to check the damage I saw liquid coming from under the car and thought I had damaged the sump. A quick drive to the nearest garage revealed that it was from the air/con. what a relief!!

We had travelled all the way from Dunfermline in Scotland and things only started to go wrong on the last leg of our journey which really tested our patience and I must admit when I hit the manhole cover my patience finally gave way and I ranted and raved on for a while. I blame it on the tiredness.We got to the flat and unpacked the car with help from Brian who lives in the flat below with Jan. By the time we had everything in the flat I must have lost at least 4 kilos, up and down, up and down, you know how it goes.

The day was not finished yet, I still may need to go back to Tasucu myself and try to recover my documents but first we would visit our friend Mehmet at the Manolya Hotel in Lapta and ask for his assistance. It was really good to se him again, he is such a friendly and helpful person. First he arranged for coffee whilst we explained what at happened he then phoned the Tasucu ferry office who, this time confirmed my folder was there. Mehmet arranged for it to be placed in an envelope addressed to the hotel and given to the captain of the next ferry and we would collect it at the port. I could have danced all night, what a bloody relief now we can get down to settling in


This was a day to unpack,get the flat ready for us, do a shop, and have a look at how the house is coming on, this is a good time to show how it has progressed pic1, pic2, pic3, pic4 and pic 5 We had arranged to meet John and Christine tonight down at the old harbour to have a drink and unwind from the recent journey. Must have been a good night, we left Boaters bar at 4 in the morning


Took us about 30 mins to walk back from Boaters and straight to bed as we had to be up early to go to the bank. We had opened an account at the HSBC they do not belong to the HSBC as we know it due to the trade embargo but retain the name. The way it works is not like the UK, you enter and get a ticket from the machine and the number on it will, at some stage be called up just like the delicatessen counter at Tesco's the only difference is that here they deal with about 6 customers in an hour. This particular day we waited 3 hrs, just to request a cheque book and draw some money from our sterling account


Shopping today, bought a water cooler which was money well spent, topped up our phone cards and got my golf shoes resoled, we need flat soled footware to play golf here due to there being no greens but browns a mixture of sand and oil (more later) Went out to say hello to Ali who we had met in January and had dinner at his restaurant 'Alesta's bar' in Karakum near where our house is being built. The food is very good and we plan to eat there regularly.


Today we visited Levents, our builders. First we went on site then to their offices in Lefkosa. Their coordinator is girl called Sabiha who is very helpful, we discussed certain extras for the house. The build shows a front wall on our new house with link fencing on the remaining boundaries. I was looking to have a wall on all boundaries. They quoted £4,600 no way. Told them I was really interested in a wall but not at that price. We then had a walk round Lefkosa seeing Reminders of the past and stopped for a light lunch.


Played Golf what a difference to the Uk. I'm finding it really difficult to get used to this course. I will need to think my way round and change my game to suit the course


This morning spent on the balcony getting some sun and then visited the Pegasos Pub for the market day, expats have stalls there on a Friday to raise funds for various charities, mostly books, trinkets etc but also a bakers stall where we buy a couple of sausage rolls. Normally have a soft drink and a bite of lunch there too

This evening we met up with John and Christine down at boaters for a few drinks and heard about their garden idea's. Christine is a keen gardener, John soon will be.


Visited John and Christine's at their Villa Jasmine in Yesiltepe to see if their garden ideas were being worked on, John was hard at it.(sorry about the picture, it was a redo) We then went for swim at Manolya


Another day for the Golf, getting a little better and staring to enjoy it. When I returned home Michele had finished all the housework including the ironing, so guess what, a little sun on the balcony and evening meal at Ezic a chicken restaurant only 5 mins from where we are staying, really good food and the service is the quickest in town, because of this it's always very busy.


This is the day Kimberly our daughter arrives for a holiday, Me and Michele were not supposed to arrive here until tomorrow and the arrangements were that Kimberly would be collected by Mehmet and taken to the Manolya for 1 night and we would collect her on Tuesday morning. What a surprise she is going to get when we meet her at the airport.

We had some business to attend to at the builders first so called in to see them on the way to Ercan airport. The wall cost is still £4,600 and the answer is still no.

Kimberly nearly fell down when she walked into me at the airport 'Dad, What are you doing here ? she was overcome for a while. We were so glad to see her, so much to tell her and so much to show her.

On the way home she wanted to see the house so we called in at the site, nearly got her thinking about moving over here.

Tonight we took Kimberly for a walk down town and ended up at Boaters in the old harbour had a few drinks there and a meal. It was another good night had by all. It had been a long day especially for Kimberly she had been awake since waking up on Sunday morning


Rather than have a long lie today we all got up early,and went to Escape beach, we all wanted a lazy day to relax, read the UK papers she had brought and enjoy the beach and the sun not forgetting of course spending quality time together.

We stayed at the beach until 5.30pm then off home Michele made a pasta dish then we all had an early night.


Another day on the golf course and not a bad round either, left the girls to catch up on each others news.

When I returned in the afternoon I took the girls to the Manolya for a swim, The weather seemed to be getting hotter each day with temperatures over 40 degrees, it was the start of a heat wave.

Tonight we all met up with John and Christine at Boaters, this has now become our 'local' at the harbour, stayed until midnight then home.


Today was spent looking around the shops in town, visit to Kyrenia castle which has within it on display the oldest shipwreck ever discovered. the findings suggest it was a Syrian Commercial ship which sank 1 mile north of the castle in 300BC.

We then had a walk round the old harbour which is the heart of Girne. lunch at Alesta's then a visit to the building site then the rest of the day on the balcony.


We all went to escape beach for another lazy day. I left the girls there about noon and drove into Lefkosa to look for an astro turf type mat to use on the golf course fairways, couldn't find anything suitable. Collected the girls at about 5.30 then a night in.


We drove east to the University beach club just north of Famagusta cost about £1 for non members, stayed there the rest of the day, what a great place, fantastic pool with private beach


Golf wasn't too good today but I still enjoyed it. In the afternoon it was back to the Manolya pool for a swim and catch up with Mehmet, when the hotel season quietens down I will teach him to play golf, he is very interested, It will help me with my Turkish which at this time consists of the usual pleasantries and of course ordering drinks at the bar, strange how we always learn that first. Mehmet will learn a few English words that are not in the dictionary but used often on the golf course


We decided to take Kimberly to Nicosia it was a scorcher of a day and we walked along just outside the green line. We will take all our visitors on that walk, which we now call the tourist route, past the crumbling buildings that are still lived in, an old Greek church then up through the market stall, onto the indoor fruit market and the nearby mosque


Another golf day which went ok. Then in the afternoon it was in town with the girls. Looking from our balcony today we could see the Turkish Banners on the mountains between 2 peaks it was 'Peace and Freedom' day. Terry from my internet host 'Sunnycyprus.net' invited us up to their rooftop in the evening to watch the air display. It was very good. Sorry no pics, camera at home.


We had arranged to take Kimberly up to the Karpas peninsula, and stay over for one night, we took our time going up, stopping at various beaches including one next to the hotel 'Oasis' which sits next to an old roman harbour. We arrived at our destination the 'Blue Sea' hotel about 5.30pm it has a small fishing harbour alongside . There is no electricity all power is by solar during the day and by generator at night. Michele and I had stayed here before very basic but again it was genuine North Cyprus hospitality and this is what we wanted Kimberly to see. We had dinner out on the terrace and so did the mosquitoes.

It was a very warm night, there was no air con or fans, we left our windows closed to keep out our dinner companions in case they were still peckish so by morning I would have lost a few pounds in weight, don't sweat has much in the gym. Kimberly stayed in her room trying to get some sleep whilst Michele and I went for breakfast, fried egg, toast cheese and coffee, we then woke up Kimberly and checked out


HAPPY BIRTHDAY MUM :) We carried on up the road north stopping at Turtle beach where Kimberly had a swim, then onto the 'Apostolos Andreas' monastery He was, according to legend a follower of John the Baptist and was called for by Jesus to spread Christianity. His monastery is accepted as 'sacred' by both Turkish and Greek Cypriots. On the way there we saw many wild donkeys Kimberly tried to hand feed them but they were having none of it.

On the return journey we stopped at Bafra beach and spent the remainder of the day there, it was really good and we will go back sometime. We were pretty tired when we got back to Girne and had an early night


Kimberly had always fancied scuba diving so we took her along to Dolphins at the Jasmine Hotel and talked with Simon the chief instructor there. We arranged a trial dive for later in the day. She was like a duck to water and in no time got her dad to fork out for a course. Well that's what dads are for, isn't it, Michele and I would just relax for a couple of days in the flat.


No news, relaxing at the flat.


After dropping Kimberly off at Dolphins we went out to Lara beach for the day, it was our 1st time there and although not as up market as Escape beach it was still nice, much quieter and cheaper but the snorkelling wasn't as good, however we will at some point return.


Part of the numerous pieces of paperwork we require to apply for a temporary residence permit is a letter from the Muhter (village headman ) saying it would be ok to live there but first we had to find out which village we came under. On our house contract the village is posted as Ozankoy but we thought we lived in Karakum as in our address 'Karakum Villas'. Anyway we decided we would look for the Ozankoy Muhter, we stopped at the village shop and asked for the Muhtar they directed us to the post office where we spoke with a girl she phoned the Muhter and then asked to see some papers which we showed her, she then directed us to the local sports social club where he spends all day playing backgammon and reading the papers. He gladly signed the papers and got his friends to countersign. it was grass roots officialdom.

We then proceeded into Girne to get some more stamps , not postage, in certain departments that we need to visit, customs, police immigration etc they need to stamp forms, but we supply the stamps ???No matter how long you waited in a queue or how long the administration took if you have no stamp you are sent away. We bought about 15 at 1million TL each about 37pence.

This was also Kimberly's final scuba day and we went to collect her. She passed her course and guess what, an advanced course was starting tomorrow, why not, she is enjoying herself and she is on holiday. So we agreed. Anyway we had some administration to do and that would only bore her.


We dropped Kimberly off at Dolphins and set of for Lefkosa to visit the Gumruk (customs) to deal with my car. I was aware that I would be liable for import duty and when we arrived in North Cyprus I was given until now before I needed to visit. When we arrived at the customs house which is in an industrial estate it was very busy, we eventually found the office that would deal with us. just inside this office is a counter with a glass partition and an open door leading into the office. we waited this side of the counter until 1 of the 3 ladies at their desks dealt with us. There were people who came in behind us walked straight through the open door and up to the girls and were attended to. We soon discovered the counter meant nothing and just like the locals walked up to a desk.

The girl looked at my vehicle documents, driving licence etc and told me she would delay any import duty for 6 months but need to tax my car before the end of August when my UK tax ran out then return here with my new road tax and she would give me another 6 months. Fair enough, but how much would the duty be ?? She said if I needed to know now I would have to go to another office. At least I know not to wait behind counters.

We proceeded to the next office which looked much more official and with lots of desks, umm, better wait behind the counter. I am a coward at heart. The people behind the desks looked up at us frequently and I was waiting for the nod but none came. After about 10 mins when one of them looked up I said 'merhaba' (hello) his reply was 'can I help you' and indicated that I should go to his desk. I wonder why have counters ?

I asked him what my duty would be, showed him all my papers again and he studied the car dealers bible Glass's Guide after about 10 mins he got up and left, boys room? tea break? resigned ? wherever he went, he took the Glass's Guide with him. He returned 10 mins later and told me my duty would be £4,300 but this would be reduced as the car value decreases over the 12 month period I have been given as leeway. Was it worth bringing the car over? I have to say yes.


Today was another relaxing day for Michele and me, Kimberly was still searching for Nemo at the scuba centre. In the evening we took a run over to Alagadi beach to meet up with the Turtle Project people they took us to a turtle site on the beach that they would excavate and release any little ones left that did not manage to get out themselves. Only 1 from 1,000 survive into adult hood. It was an interesting evening.


No news just a Laaaaazy day in the sun.


Kimberly had gone out last night with some friends she had made at the scuba centre, she returned home with earache. She had 2 dives and some theory yet to finish on her course, she decided that she would give it a go. Unfortunately it did not ease up and although she completed the theory she could not do the 2 dives, however she got a part certification and will continue diving once she got her ears checked out back home.


Another visit to Lefkosa but this time the southern side via the border crossing at Ledra Palace, walked the usual shops with Kimberly looking for new shoes and whatever else caught her eye. After having lunch there we returned home and spent the rest of the day just relaxing.